Clean-Up After A Shooting Session

Take a picture, especially landscape and wildlife, clearly has the potential to make people OCD (Obsesive Compulsive Disorder – aka too neat) as I was cringing. Not because of the sunset, but can not because his adventures could potentially foul the equipment. Starting from dirt on the lens and filter (dust, grease, splashes of water, etc.), or in the body of the camera, and it is definitely on the tripod that submerged sea water and hit the sand. Yes, Yes, it was just a piece of equipment, so it must be accepted that they would be dirty when we use, but most do not because they were expensive we need to understand how to take care of her. So how do we cleaned?

The Lens

The main enemy is the lens dust, oil (because it touched the hands as well as the others) and splashes of water (sea water is the worst). A little dust and oil is not going to disrupt the results of a photo. But it could be water splash stains in the photo, if it touches the sky's easy living in the Patch Tool in photoshop, but if it's in the details might be a little hassle.

For prevention:

Use UV filters as protectionism – rather than to the front lens stick, then subject to UV. So the more "easy" for us to clean it up. Additionally UV filter is useful as a cover up so the micro dust does not get into the inside of the lens.

Use a lens hood – on condition of spatter or dust that badly then the lens hood blocking a bit of dirt on the lens surface directly.

Open the lens cover cap – when the splash of waves/waterfalls are carried by the wind continued to "falling" then the lens cap may be closing temporarily. Wait till the wind conditions were better, the new open and just snap. And then close again.

Well, soon after coming home from the clear lens shooting session that is ready in the next photo shoot. Have any lackeys (read: Assistant) Yes please for help. Create that haven't had as I am, ya gotta clean yourself :D

Giottos Rocket Air Blower clean after Clean photo shoot 300 x 250

To dust (and also the first step clean) is to use the blower. Blower blowing dust dust are useful for large size. The goal so that the dust does not puncture the moment we are using a rag. Rag + dust = sandpaper.

After the dust in the wind using a blower then we can use Microfiber Cloth to clean the small dust/smudge. Clean gently using a circular motion. If there is still a stubborn stain, then use the "steam from our mouths" to slightly moisten the surface of the lens/filter UV. Usually this works well to clean the stain.

But if the stain is still not also want is missing, then use the liquid lens cleaner, e.g. Zeiss lens spray cleaner. Spray a little on a clean microfiber cloth. And then clean in the area there are stubborn stains, wait a minute until she evaporate by itself. Live lap again with a dry microfiber cloth. Only need one spray to clean 1-2 lens.

Microfiber Duster that had already been used over and over sometimes need to be washed well. Do not use washer detergent, but use SOAP/shampoo in soft baby washcloth to wash the microfiber. Then the wind anginkan in the shaded area and is not dusty. This washing process, rarely less than, also 3-6 months just once.

Filter

For round types of filters, such as UV, CPL and ND then how clean it is similar to clean the lens. Do not use water to clean this filter type, much less to the filter and Megas Yialos CPL-ND, because water can enter between two optical surfaces are stacked. If this happens then it will be very difficult to clean it without uninstalling that filter. Use the liquid lens cleaner in spray to lap just when there is a microfiber stubborn stains.

For GND filters type box then the cleaning can be done using flowing water well (although the liquid lens cleaner remains more effectively). Do not use SOAP, simply flush the water at the surface of the filter GND and wind anginkan a little and wipe dry using a microfiber cloth.

The Body Of The Camera/Lens

For camera/lens to body, we can use a blower and wipe microfiber as well. The liquid lens cleaner can also be used for the area of the LCD of the camera. If there are still stains of sweat that stubborn creases (usually as a white crust), then we can use a microfiber rag we dampen with water then dry it until damp. Slowly we can clean the stain that stains using a damp washcloth.

 

Tripod

The Tripod is the equipment exposed to the most severe shit indeed. My advice is to wash as soon as possible after the photo shoot from a tripod, especially if it's just "dye" into the sea water. Pull the tripod, then rinse with fresh water. Sea water is very evil to the tripods made of iron (usually pin on the legs of the tripod leg lock and bolt-nut also used on a tripod). In a moment it could be corroded parts. Tripod legs are generally safe because made of aluminium/carbon fibre, but if Rusty the bolt? Still vulnerable.

Once flush with fresh water pat dry using an absorbent rag like Chamois. Then the wind drying out tripod. We can also issue-put his feet to force the water in between the gaps of the tripod out. Or if the foot bottom can be removed then we can take it off so that the water trapped in the tube can come out perfect.

For prevention we can also use oils singer (commonly used for lubricating sewing machines) and greased ("fat" in English) to the area that moves and is made of iron. This will be a sort of liquid coatings to water.

 

Understand The Term Full Frame And Crop Factor

Often hear the words "full frame", "Crop factor", "APS-C", APS-H "and still don't understand the meaning? The sense of this vocabulary is not merely to know it, but it is very useful to understand the focal length. Understanding focal length will have an impact on the lens-what lens should I choose.

Initially the Single Lens Reflex (SLR) is created which is used as a medium is film. Still remember the dong with a film camera with film Fuji or Kodak? Well that is the movie with the size of the 35 mm (36 x 24 mm), this is known as a movie with standard 135. In the era of the film almost all cameras use the same film format. It is a full frame camera, 35 mm.

800px 135 fuji film macros 300x200 understand the term Full Frame and Crop Factor

At the time of the digital world begins to make the sensors the price is very expensive. Create a digital sensor approximately the size of 35 mm film, the exorbitant price it just using the Canon 1Ds sensor for it. To suppress the selling price (so it could sell more) then the camera manufacturers make a sensor with smaller size. This is a smaller size will be cheaper in terms of cost. The came the range of sensor size.

500px SensorSizes understand the term Full Frame and Crop Factor

The most common measure used is the type of APS-C. For this type of sensor size slightly smaller Canon than his colleagues, although all still referred to APS-C type. While the APS-H is only used by Canon 1 d camera (without the letter s). One of the types of sensors that are also quite popular lately, is a type of Four Third cameras are commonly used by Olympus. While the bottom line of the above scheme is commonly used by digital camera pocket with super small sensor size.

What is the impact of the use of the smaller sensors? Certainly appear "Auto-Crop" on the resulting image. This is because the picture of the lens captured only a small portion of the field that is the sensor is.

Sensor Sizes Understand The Term Full Frame And Crop Factor

Courtesy of: http://philipbloom.net/

Can be seen in the photo above. On camera with full frame sensor, then the result is the full picture. With the APS-H sensor APS-C and a smaller then the photos as if in the crop becomes more "small". I provide quotes on the word "little" because it could be camera with APS-C sensors have a larger sensor resolution, so it is called a crop but the prints could be larger than the maximum full frame (for example, we compare the results from Canon 5 d Mark 1 with Canon 7 d).

The level of crop is stated with a crop factor. Crop factor stated focal length multiplier to produce an Equivalent Field of View (EFOV). An example of this in the photo above we used a lens with focal length 14 mm. see the results obtained by the APS-C sensor, this kind of results obtained using the lens of 22.4 mm (14 mm x crop factor 1.6) on a full frame sensor. So if you want to generate full frame photos as above (14 mm) must use the lens of 8.75 mm (14 mm/1.6) on cameras with APS-C sensors.

Another example: 200 mm lens on a full frame will act like a lens 200 mm (full frame 1 x crop factor). However, the results were like a lens with focal length 320mm on cameras with APS-C sensor (crop factor 1.6 x).

What are the effects of sensor size? The most direct impact is the arrangement of different lenses. On a full frame lens focal length 24 mm wide is included, but in APS-C focal length is simply normal (24 mm x 1.6 = 38.4 mm). So if I have the following lens arrangement on full frame:

• Super wide lens: Canon 17-40 f4 L

• The all round lenses/normal: Canon 24-105 f4 L IS

• Telephoto lens: Canon 70-200 f4 L IS

canon 5 d mark ii top understand the term Full Frame & Crop Factor

On cameras with APS-C sensors then the order of its focal length is changed:

• Super wide lenses: Canon EF-S 10-22 F3.5-4.5 – equivalent to a 16-35 mm wide, at least so far for Canon APS-C

• The all round lenses/normal: Canon EF-S 17-55 F2.8 IS – the equivalent of 27-88mm

• Telephoto lens: Canon 70-200 f4 L IS – the equivalent of 112-320mm

canon eos 1000d understand the term Full Frame and Crop Factor

It can be seen that the Affairs of the sensor size is very influential on the lens normal wide & tele instead. Telephoto lens thus much tele using small sensors. But wide lens becomes no longer wide by using small sensors. This is one of the factors why the landscape professional photographers prefer full frame sensor compared to APS-C sensor.

Wide lens is generally a prime lens is the best/fixed focal length. Currently the best Canon brand lens wide is the EF 14 mm & 24 mm. at the second full frame lens provides a wide viewing angle and very useful. But in such a small sensor APS-C lens only produces the equivalent focal length 13.9 mm & 38.4 mm – still less wide.

 

Canon put out 2 lines of lenses, the EF & EF-S (L Series including type EF). Types of lenses the EF can be used either in full frame sensor or non-full frame. However, the EF-S type can only be used on a camera with a 1.6 x crop factor (Yes, even the APS-H could not use EF-S). So for example the lens EF-S 10-22 F3.5-4.5 will not be used on the Canon 5dMarkII. The risk of its use is the mirror on the camera can be on the back of the EF-S lenses tend to be more prominent.

On Nikon lens type 2 is also known (in General, because there is a grouping of others), namely the non-DX and DX. DX lenses can only be used on cameras with a crop factor. So for example the legendary lens Nikkor 17-55 F2.8 DX will not be used perfectly on the D700 for example. The difference is in the Nikon DX lenses actually still useable on full frame, but his crop would be enough "crazy" – from 12.1 Mpixel using non DX lenses, to just 3.2 MPixel if you use DX lenses.

canon 14 mm comparison understand the term Full Frame and Crop Factor

Canon 16-35 mm & 14 mm, Sigma 12-24 mm

In general the advantages of a full frame sensor:

• Because of the sensor size is larger then is able to use a wide lens focal length that corresponds to the specified, not multiply by the crop factor anymore

• The larger sensor size make sensors in high ISO performance is better, cleaner from noise and tend to be a little sharper with better color gradation

• Depth-of-field that is narrower, the result is blur is better. Remember that small sensors just take a portion of the depth-of-field of a lens, using a full frame sensor will display the entire space captured sharp lens.

Whereas in general the lack of a full frame sensor are:

• The prices are expensive sensors make full frame cameras typically achieve 2 x more expensive than folding small sensors

• The large sensor size generally create the appearance of light fall-off & vignette at the ends of the picture. This is because the quality of the lighting & the best sharpness from lenses generally is in the middle. The small Sensor makes us use the "best" of a lens.

Understand your sensor size & crop factor. Then arrange your lens range to suit your needs and also the crop factor.

 

Tips On Buying A Used Lens

With the price of a new lens that is increasingly expensive, many of us are choosing to buy a used lens or lens second hand to downsize. The former is an alternative lens to Captivate because its price is relatively cheaper and if we can evaluate the quality of a lens is the former then we can get a used lens is indeed still assured of its quality.

1. Buy a used lens

In this article, the belfot will try to explain the advantages of buying used lenses and how to purchase them securely in order to avoid the wrong purchase.

Why Buy A Used Lens?

The main reason of course mengemat fees. The former are usually strung on each lens prices are 30% cheaper than new condition, even for old lenses are older we can get cheaper prices again.

Another reason is when we will change "religion", for example I switched from Canon to Nikon DSLR system, then the entire Nikon equipment I have used I am selling. Of the sales, instead of add then I bought a used Canon brand lens equivalent price.

 

Buy A Used Lens, Whether Their Risks?

Just like buying a used car, buy a used motor and whatever conditions are not perfect, all the consequences. We need to do is to minimize the risks. There are several actions that we need to do to minimize the risk. Well, this article will try to help you in order to minimize the risk of buying a used lens.

Former Lens Isn't Usually Sold As There Are Disability?

Life in this world is always gray, however, it that makes our lives instead of passionate (fuck the hell it means bang passionate? gray? oh, nothing jusy saying ... heheh). Just because an item sold does not necessarily mean the item is damaged or defective. I have a neighbor who's profession as a used car dealer, and the majority of people who are selling used cars is because they need the money or want to buy a new car but have to sell their old cars in advance.

People sell the zoom lens because the lens has greatness mereke prime (prime lens greatness? read here, here and here) and want to switch prime lens wear. People sell old generation lens since it came out a generation later. People sell macro lens because they used to be in a hurry to buy without menyadarai in fact their interest was not there. Si Otong want to take spesialiasi portrait lens wide and selling anglenya.

2. Buy a used lens

There are certainly selling their lenses as there are mushrooms in it, because lensanya not accurate autofocus and of course there's also sold because they lenses swag (woooo). Now our job is to filter out anything like it and buy completely from those who sell with positive motivation and honestly, if there is cacatnya that can be detected from the start or better yet they told me from the beginning. I once had to sell a lens that silly autofokusnya with very cheap price, and the person who bought it is not need autofocus because they always photographed with manual focus.

 

Some Tips On Buying A Used Lens

These are a few guidelines you can do before you buy a used lens for meminimalisisr risk is already explained above:

 

3. Buy a used lens

Buy a used most ideal lens: buy from people you know directly. This can avoid many risks because we know the reputation of our acquaintance. If you buy a used lens from a friend who does not wear the lenses above, we could know the usage history and can try and test it freely in advance. But the bang, I hesitate haggling prices with your own? well that must be addressed with the maturity and mas mbak

If they have to buy from an unknown person, try to meet physically. Many feel secure transacting over long distances for a transaction value of Rp 500,000 for example. However, if you buy a used lens for motor, I suggest should meet with the seller directly in order to not buy a cat in a sack. You should check the condition of the optic, physical and mechanical performance of lenses and so on.

Bring your laptop while meeting with the seller. For what bringing a laptop? So that we can evaluate the results of the photo lens. Try to install the lens to your camera then moving the photos to a laptop so that you can zoom up to check for defects such as autofocus always misses or centering problem.

Check the physical condition of the optic lens. You should check the optical lens and observe the case there was mold in the lenses, scratches or dust. Types of defects such as these should be easily visible. Small scratches and dust on the front and back of the lens could be material to a reasonable trade-off. If the fungus is found quite alarming and you should evaluate whether or not easily removed.

10 Tips for Photographing The Sunset And Sunrise

Photo of sunset and sunrise is one of the many "photo required" should be done by a fan of photography. If you've ever tried to photograph the sunset or sunrise but are less satisfied with the result, please try the following tips so that the photo of the sunset and sunrise add up either:

1. Do the best Preparation

Sunset and sunrise only lasted about half an hour. For that we have to do a thorough preparation in advance. Be sure to come early and make sure you already know from the point where you will be photographing. In order that the final composition of the photos are cool, do the observation place before. To make sure you're not late, so you know what time sunset or sunrise will arrive (due to the hours of sunset/sunrise differ from location to location). Also make sure the equipment is ready: camera – lens – tripod (if any) as well as other accessories already installed and set properly, so the time comes we can busy photographing isn't busy setting tool. Read more tips about composition.

2. Don't Be Disappointed Because Of The Rain

Since you've been gone – jaded go to a remote location and difficult, don't be disappointed if it suddenly rain arrived. Maximize your creativity when overcast skies covered. Overcast sky not snag resulted in beautiful photos at sunrise and sunset. Find out what interesting objects to be photographed while light snow or rain.

 

3. Don't Get Hung Up On Wide Angle

Photographing the sunset and sunrise using a wide angle lens (wide angle) is okay, but don't get hung up using only the lens (if you do have other options). Take advantage of the range of other lenses, such as telephoto lens.

4. Maximize The Silhouette

Things that add to the appeal of sunset and sunrise photos is the silhouette. The silhouette of a strong impression and give the story in your photos, especially if you are photographing the sunset or sunrise at a location that has a strong identity. Also read the tips on photographing the silhouette.

 

5. Bring a Tripod

If you want to make use of the technique of long shutter – create HDR or panorama: the tripod must be brought. Also read tips on choosing a tripod and tripod head tips on choosing.

 

6. Use Manual Focus

Because sunset and sunrise has a light quality that is pretty extreme, sometimes camera will trouble finding the focus when you use the auto focus mode, switch to manual mode and immediately so that we don't waste time waiting for the cameras to find focal point.

7. Use Preset White Balance Clouds

Change the white balance setting to the clouds (usually denoted with an icon of light). White balance settings it will make photos of sunset or sunrise colour is warmer and more "bite", compared to when using auto white balance setting. Or if you like to experiment, try the other white balance settings. What is white balance?

 

8. Use Spot Metering (and the Prosumer DSLR) or Sunset Scene (For pocket camera)

To obtain the right exposure, use the spot metering mode if you have a DSLR camera and the prosumer (what's that spot metering?) scene mode, or use the sunset/sunrise if you use Pocket camera beginners. For measurements using spot meter, point focal point to an area around the Sun (not right in the Sun – and then do its metering bound half shutter, then lock your exposure. For a pocket camera (scene mode), living point and just snap. Understand the operating mode of the digital camera.

9. Don't Stop When The Sunset Is Over

While photographing the sunset, don't Pack your camera you just because the Sun was over the line and horizon. Hang in the offing, because light just after sunset is one of the most beautiful light emitted by nature. So also with the sunrise, don't come too on a budget with the sunrise. The light just before sunrise is one of the most beautiful

 

10. Pray That Nature Favors on you

You've been away – far come to remote beaches (or mountain), set up an alarm to wake up at 4 in the morning and already set up all the equipment ready to be photographed, but arrived – arrive rain arrived.  Photographed in the wild open indeed requires luck and patience, why patience? because you can try again tomorrow

Get Acquainted with The Diaphragm (Aperture)

 

The diaphragm is one of the things that can make a dimensional photos. Thanks to diaphragm, magical photographs can be produced.

For simplicity, the diaphragm of the lens aperture is a measure of when the photos were taken.

The Openings? Yes, there is a hole in the diaphragm within the lens. The hole where this light we can adjust the amount. If the hole is getting bigger then the incoming light will be more and more, as well as vice versa.

small diaphragm (f/22) © wiranurmansyah

Don't be surprised if these numbers look at f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22 and so on. These are numbers that represent the high or low diaphragm.

To remember is f/2.8 is larger than f/16. Moving from f/2.8 to f/4 will reduce light one f-stop. The diaphragm in the sequence above is a standard sequence of highlights in one f-stop.

Often confusing newbies are numerical values that are as small as f/2.8 turns out is great openings (where incoming light more). Remember, the f/2.8 aperture is large and f/22 is the small openings. It may sound strange, but eventually we'll get used to it.

The diaphragm and the depths of space (Depth of Field)

f/2.8

The diaphragm determines the dimensions of our pictures. Rather is setting the depth of space or Depth of field (DOF). The diaphragm will affect directly to the DOF.

Large diaphragm (f/2.8) will be made increasingly thin DOF, the diaphragm is often used for portrait photography. Because it can isolate objects with background. If you see a photo portrait with the background blur, then it is certain the photographer using a diaphragm.

f/22

Another case with landscape photography, photographers need a wide DOF. From the object nearest to the camera up to a distance as much as possible focus. This is the time we are using a small diaphragm (f/22). We can also apply the principle of the hyperfocal distance, which will be discussed at the next post.

To understand more about the diaphragm, the main thing to do is to experiment on their own. Use the diaphragm creatively, you might want to try photographing landscape with f/1.8? No problem!

I hope a little introduction about diaphragms can be beneficial. Don't forget to read my friend from the diaphragm shutter speed and iso.

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